Constructing a Chunky Garden Office

Chunky Garden Office

This is meant as a guide, and not as a replacement to your instruction manual, always ensure you read the instructions provided.

 

Step 1 – Put down your bearers

We provide an instruction manual with your Chunky Garden Office which explains, in great detail, how to lay the floor bearers to ensure even coverage and weight distribution. Make sure that the diagonals of the base are the same – you need to make sure that the base is completely square and that the corners have right angles. We provide ‘noggins’ (smaller pieces of wood) to make it easier for you to work out how much space you should have between each bearer. Take your time constructing your base as its crucial you get it right.

Step 2 – Building up the outside wall

We provide 70mm x 70mm chunky corner posts (hence the product name) which you will screw your wall panels into. As your walls are connected via hooks which easily connect, making construction simple, ensure that these hooks are facing the right direction to keep construction easy– which is all explained in your instruction manual. Once your panels are in place, use a mallet to square everything up and ensure your panels sit all the way down.

Once you’ve finished building your paneled walls, and ensured it’s all squared up, you need to fit your ring beam along the top – again these are simply screwed into place but make sure you read the instructions if unsure. This ensures that everything is inline and provides structural support to the impressive vaulted roof.

After you’ve added the ring beam, and the fourth chunky corner post, it’s time to add the additional decorative corner posts. These are simply screwed in to the 70mm x 70mm corner posts and bearers. Although aesthetically pleasing, these are also additional supports for the roof so make sure the notches on top of the posts line up with the ring beam (this can require slightly lifting the corner post).

Step 3 – Adding the roof

Our unique design mean you simply slot the timber top beam together (see video for clarity) and then screw them into place with the ring beam below it.

Although it sounds complicated, we’ve made adding the roof easy although it may take two of you. We provide a spider bracket with predrilled holes so you can simply slot and screw the roof trusses into it – if you add the four corner beams first, it’ll make construction a lot less fiddly. At the bottom of the timber are notches meaning you can slide these onto the top beam before securing it into place – then simply add the rest of the trusses and secure them to have a structurally sound roof foundation.

Once your trusses are all in place, and secured with the brackets and screws provided, it’s time to close up the gaps between the trusses and the top of the ring beam. We give you precut trims that are screwed into place with two screws.

When adding your roof boards, make sure you level the bottom boards with the corner of the perimeter to make sure they line up perfectly. Then it’s a case of working hard to nail all the roof boards down. Remember to leave a 1 – 2 mm gap between each roof board to allow space for them to naturally expand and contract. If you put them tightly together, your roof may become wavy.

The instructions will differ depending on if you choose to finish your Chunky Office with felt, shingles or thatch.

Step 4 – Fixing the uPVC windows

Always make sure everything fits before you attempt to fix into place

Adding your windows could not be easier as the panels you constructed earlier will have exposed a precut hole where your windows can slot into place. First add your windowsill in and add the seal end caps to make sure it fits snuggly. If there is a little movement then simply pack the sides with the green plastic packers (provided) to pack each side of it.

Push your window frame into place and push it as close as possible to the rebates in the timber to give you the best seal possible (you will be using silicon to seal later on). Then screw through the side of the frame and into the timber – easy peasy!

When fitting the full length uPVC windows, it is important to note that you will have two couplers to go in the middle and extension pieces to go at the sides. Both the coupler and the extension piece will need to be cut to the same length as your windows and doors (height, not width). Line your extension piece up with the frame of your full height uPVC panels and then fit it into place with a mallet – light, firm taps! When fitting these, be aware of the drainage holes! These will always be at the bottom of the uPVC frame and you need to make sure they are positioned correctly when fitting.

When screwing into place, through the frame, coupler and into the other frame, ensure you screw through the middle of the channel so the screw head doesn’t hit the glass when in place.

Step 5 – Fitting the door

We use welded side hinged doors so use a level to make sure your frame is level (preferably use a spirit level) – if it’s not, you can tighten it with screws or pack it out. Then securely attach the hinges as per the instructions provided.

Before fitting the glass, ensure your uPVC framework is lined up properly, that it fits snug (pack if necessary) and that it is secure within the timber.

Step 6 – Fitting sealed units

You will get separate instructions to help you fit in your sealed units – follow these to make sure you pack correctly and that the sight lines remain equal. Lift the glass into place before securing it with the plastic shims. Once the glass is secure, and you are happy with it, you will need to add the internal beading to hold your glass in place.

Internally beading your window is easy as we supply everything you need (not the mallet). Once the window is in place, and you have checked it lines up, snap the pre cut beading into place and tap it with the mallet to ensure there are no gaps.

Step 7 – Adding plasterboard to the ceiling

We pre cut the plasterboard interior for your ceiling and have already attached your insulation for your ease. Simply slot it into place and secure it with drywall screws. The plasterboard walls of the Chunky Office come pre attached to the external wall panels so you don’t need to worry about fitting them.

Step 8 – Laying the floor

The floor is slightly different. You need to cut the insulation to fit between the gaps in your bearers (should be easy to do) before fitting the MFP boards and securing into place.

Step 9 – Finishing touches

Now it’s time to go around your Chunky Office and complete the finishing touches needed to create a visually stunning space that’ll impress all your guests:
We provide trims to cover the natural joins that will form in the timber between the panels. Secure these in place with the nails provided (and, if you want, some no more nails too).

Add silicon around the edges of the uPVC framework (where it would meet the timber).

Secure your electrical ports to the wall. Whilst we don’t connect your office to the electrics, we do provide everything you need to run your Garden Office including lights, fuse box and double gang plug sockets. Attach the skirting boards to make sure your office has a look that is the same as you would expect to find in your home.

We provide bags of dry plaster mix and joint tape for you to plaster the interior of your Chunky Office. This prevents unsightly joins that will naturally occur with a paneled construction. Simply cover the joins with the tape and then plaster over for a smooth finish from floor to ceiling.

After the plaster dry’s, the final step of construction is painting your office. We supply white paint for you to decorate your Chunky Office; giving you a blank canvas to decorate how you feel best represents your business. If you don’t want to decorate further, the white paint gives a modern, clean finish that’ll impress guests and clients alike.

For further clarity, watch our Director Andy Murphy as he adds a Chunky Office to his own garden!

 

 

May 22, 2016

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